How to put up Linlava wallpaper

Linlava wallpapers are printed on a heavyweight non-woven substrate and installed using the paste-the-wall method. Begin with a surface that is clean, smooth and sound. Then follow the labels on the rolls and at the top of each strip, mark a plumb starting line and hang the strips from left to right, edge to edge.

Strip 1 begins at the far left of the wall you have designated as Wall 1. The first strip must be perfectly plumb, as it sets the line for everything that follows.

What do you need before you begin?

Essential tools and materials

• wallpaper paste suitable for non-woven wallpaper
• roller and tray or bucket for the paste
• brush for edges, corners and confined areas
• wallpaper smoother or soft wallpaper brush
• plumb bob, long spirit level or cross-line laser level
• tape measure, folding ruler and pencil
• wallpaper trimming guide or broad straightedge
• sharp wallpaper knife and spare blades
• clean bucket of water and a soft sponge
• clean, light-coloured cloths
• protective floor paper or plastic sheeting

Useful for more complex areas

• scissors for short relief cuts and tight areas
• seam roller, should you choose to use one
• long, clean tool for smoothing behind radiators
• stable work platform for high walls or sloping ceilings

Use only wallpaper paste intended for non-woven wallpaper. Follow the paste manufacturer’s instructions for quantity, mixing and open time.

Part 1: The standard installation process

How should the wall be prepared?

The surface must be clean, dry, smooth and sound. Wallpaper follows the wall closely, so joints, rough filler edges and loose paint may show through the finished surface.

Begin by:

1. removing nails, screws, loose material and remnants of old wallpaper
2. washing away grease, dust and dirt
3. filling holes, damage and uneven areas
4. allowing the filler to dry completely
5. sanding the surface smooth and removing all sanding dust
6. priming absorbent, newly sanded or locally filled areas so that the wall absorbs paste evenly

The wall should have an even, neutral base colour. Strong colour differences, dark areas or a clearly visible pattern beneath the wallpaper should be covered before installation.

Painted walls

Check that the paint is firmly bonded. Wash the wall if it is dirty or greasy, then allow it to dry. Sand glossy surfaces to a matt finish so the paste can grip. Scrape away flaking paint, fill any damage and prime repaired areas.

Plasterboard, new plaster or highly absorbent surfaces

New and absorbent surfaces must be completely dry. Fill and sand joints and fixings, then prime the entire surface in accordance with the primer manufacturer’s instructions. An evenly primed wall gives the strip more slip while you position it and reduces the risk of dry patches beneath the wallpaper.

Existing wallpaper

The most reliable surface is a clean, smooth wall with the old wallpaper removed. Remove any wallpaper that is loose, textured, split at the seams or otherwise uneven. In some cases, completely smooth wallpaper that is firmly bonded across the entire surface can be left in place, but seams and irregularities must be filled and sanded. Check that the old layer does not release when dampened.

Distemper, limewash or uncertain surface coatings

Any coating that powders, dissolves in water or is not firmly bonded must be removed or sealed with a product suitable for the surface. Wallpaper paste must never be expected to hold a weak coating that can itself detach from the wall.

How should you prepare the room?

Protect floors, skirting boards and furniture. Move anything that interrupts the working area and make sure you can safely reach the full height of the wall.

Remove loose hooks and fittings. Isolate the power before working around sockets or switches. Remove faceplates only if you know how to do so safely. Never disconnect wires or alter any part of the fixed electrical installation in order to hang wallpaper.

Work at a normal, steady room temperature. Avoid strong heat and draughts during both installation and drying.

How should you check the delivery?

Arrange the rolls in numerical order before you begin. If your order is divided between several rolls, each roll will state which strips it contains. Begin with the roll containing the lowest strip numbers.

The strips are already arranged in installation order on the roll. The first strip is on the outside, the second sits immediately beneath it, and so on. Unroll one strip at a time. Do not unroll the entire delivery to sort it, and do not mix strips from different rolls.

The label at the top of each strip shows:

• which wall the strip belongs to
• the strip number
• which end is the top

Each strip includes a 15 cm trimming allowance at the bottom.

Strip 1 begins at the far left of Wall 1. From there, always work from left to right. Complete the strips for one wall in numerical order before moving on to the next wall.

Check the wall number, strip number and orientation before placing each strip on the pasted wall.

Where should you mark the first plumb line?

Do not assume that a corner, door frame or window reveal is plumb. Mark a perfectly vertical line where the outer edge of Strip 1 will sit. Use a plumb bob, long spirit level or laser level.

Check the line at the top, centre and bottom. Even a slight error in the first strip will carry across the entire wall.

How much of the wall should you paste?

Paste an area slightly wider than one strip. Roll on an even, continuous coat, using a brush along the ceiling, floor, corners, skirting boards and other edges. The entire area behind the strip must be covered, with no dry patches or heavy ridges of paste.

Paste one strip width at a time. Paste left exposed for too long may begin to dry before the strip is in place.

How do you hang the first strip?

Check that you have the correct strip, wall and orientation. Bring the dry strip to the pasted wall.

Align the outer edge of the strip exactly with the plumb line. Let the rest of the strip rest lightly against the wall while you check that the edge follows the line from top to bottom. The first strip must be perfectly plumb.

Smooth the strip into place with steady, overlapping strokes. Begin in the centre and work out towards the edges, first across the upper section and then downwards. The wallpaper should lie flat against the wall without being stretched.

If the strip is misplaced, lift it away and reposition it while the paste is still wet. Do not pull hard on the material to force it into position.

How do you trim the allowance at the floor?

Trim only when the strip is plumb, the pattern is correctly aligned and the surface is smooth.

Press the wallpaper trimming guide or straightedge gently into the floor line and cut along its edge with a fresh, sharp blade. Lift the knife between cuts rather than drawing one long cut with a blade that is beginning to dull.

Change blades frequently. A blunt blade tears the fibres and leaves a ragged edge.

How do you hang the next strip?

Paste the next section of wall and check the label at the top of the strip. Place the strip edge to edge with the previous one. Begin at the top and close the seam gradually as you work downwards.

Make sure the pattern meets along the full length of the edge before smoothing the strip into place. Adjust it by lifting and repositioning. Do not stretch the wallpaper or pull it firmly sideways.

Smooth the strip from the centre towards the edges and check the seam with clean fingertips or a clean wallpaper tool. A seam roller may be used, but it is not essential. If you use one, apply only light, even pressure.

How do you remove paste from the surface?

Remove paste immediately with a clean, soft sponge and clean water. Dab or wipe lightly. Do not rub the surface.

Rinse the sponge frequently and replace the water when it becomes cloudy. Pay particular attention to seams, the ceiling line, the floor edge and corners before continuing.

How do you continue across the wall?

Follow the same sequence for every strip:

1. check the wall number, strip number and orientation
2. paste one strip width with even coverage
3. place the strip edge to edge, working from left to right
4. align the pattern along the full seam
5. smooth the strip into place with steady strokes, without stretching the material
6. trim neatly with a sharp blade
7. remove any paste while it is still wet

Step back regularly and view the wall from a distance. Check that the strips remain plumb and that the pattern runs as intended. Correct any deviation immediately, before the paste begins to dry.

How should the wallpaper dry?

Allow the wallpaper to dry at a steady room temperature. Avoid strong heat, cold walls and draughts. Once the seams are closed and clean, leave them undisturbed.

Check the wall one final time while the paste is still wet:

• does every strip lie flat against the wall?
• are the seams closed, without overlap on the flat wall?
• has all paste residue been removed?
• is the wallpaper neatly trimmed at the floor, openings and fittings?

Part 2: Special situations

Read only the sections that apply to your room. The underlying principles remain the same: follow the strip markings, keep a plumb line as your reference and trim only once the strip is correctly positioned.

How do you wallpaper an internal corner?

A corner may fall on a seam or within the middle of a strip, depending on the wall measurements and how the strips have been divided for your order. Check the strip layout before you begin working at the corner.

Internal corners are rarely perfectly straight. Do not use the corner itself as the vertical reference for the next wall.

As you approach the corner:

1. check the markings and identify where the corner falls within the current strip
2. apply paste carefully all the way into the corner and a short distance onto the next wall
3. hang the strip up to the corner and ease it into place without stretching the material
4. if the corner falls within the strip, continue the same strip around the corner as shown in the strip layout
5. check the plumb line on the next wall before hanging the following strip
6. continue from left to right in strip-number order

Do not cut at the corner until you have confirmed how the current strip is intended to continue across the walls.

How do you wallpaper an external corner?

An external corner may also fall on a seam or within the middle of a strip. Check the strip layout before applying paste so that you know how much of the current strip should continue around the corner.

Apply paste carefully to both sides of the corner. If the corner falls within the strip, wrap the same strip around the edge and smooth it flat while it can still be moved. Do not press hard over the corner itself, and do not stretch the wallpaper around the edge.

Check the plumb line on the next wall before hanging the following strip. Then continue according to the markings and strip-number sequence.

How do you wallpaper around windows and doors?

Position the strip correctly and align the pattern before you begin cutting. Leave the part covering the opening loose.

1. smooth the strip up to the frame or trim
2. feel with your hand to locate the corner of the opening
3. make a short relief cut only in the area that will later be removed
4. press the wallpaper against the frame, trim or reveal
5. trim neatly against a firm guide with a fresh blade
6. work on one corner at a time, removing small sections gradually

Do not cut out the entire opening freehand. If the window reveal is also to be wallpapered, decide this before trimming the material at the edge of the opening.

How do you wallpaper around sockets and switches?

Isolate the power before you begin. Remove faceplates only if you know how to do so safely. Do not loosen the socket or switch mechanism, move wires or make any alterations to the fixed electrical installation.

Hang the strip over the area and remove only the material that must be cut away within the section that will later be concealed by the faceplate. Use small cuts and check the opening as you work.

If you are uncertain, ask a qualified electrician to remove and refit the faceplate.

How do you wallpaper behind radiators and around pipes?

Turn off the radiator and allow it to cool. Protect it from paste and water.

Where there is sufficient clearance, the strip can be guided behind the radiator and smoothed into place with a long, clean tool. Work from top to bottom and check that the strip has not folded behind the radiator.

Around pipes and brackets, make small, controlled relief cuts in the section that will later be concealed. Ease the material into place and trim only when you can see exactly where the finished edge should sit.

Do not disconnect a radiator from the heating system in order to hang wallpaper. If the radiator must be removed, the work should be carried out by a qualified plumber or heating engineer.

How do you wallpaper beneath a sloping ceiling or along a diagonal edge?

Always follow the wall markings and strip sequence. The vertical edge of the strip remains your reference, even when the ceiling line slopes.

Dry-position the first strip against the diagonal shape before applying paste. Mark a plumb line for the outer edge of the strip. Paste the full area, using a brush along the sloping ceiling line and into acute angles.

Position the strip against the plumb line and smooth it from the centre towards the edges. Then ease the wallpaper gently into the diagonal line. Trim against a wallpaper trimming guide or broad straightedge, using a fresh blade.

Work gradually. Do not cut by eye, and do not use the sloping ceiling line as a substitute for a plumb line.